Surf's Up, Dude!

After a full four days of touring Sydney, learning it's ins and outs, and taking advantage of the city's public transport... it was finally time to surf. High tide was at 2 o'clock, so I got in the water at 1:30 to warm up and get used to being back on a board. Now, I am definitely not a pro, but I have gone a few times and can ride a small wave straight to shore, but cannot turn. These waves at famous Bondi Beach literally kicked my ass. The waves were pretty big, six to seven footers with really clean breaks. As a result of these waves dropping off so high, you have to turn and ride the wave as it breaks, otherwise you just drop from seven feet high off the crest of the wave, ultimately loosing your balance and getting thrown like a rag doll. So me, not able to make any turns, paddled, stood up on the crest of the wave, rode it until it broke, then dropped seven feet and crashed and burned. At times I got thrown pretty bad, especially since I didn't have a chance to take a breath before getting tossed underneath. This area of Bondi was not for beginners, however, it was a blast getting on a board and riding some real waves.