Friday, June 12, 2009

Ulu Watu, World Famous Waves

Winding down my Indonesian adventure, I jumped off Lombok and arrived in Bali's world famous surf region, Ulu Watu, located in the very south. It took 13 hours to get here from Lombok... a three hour public bus ride (getting on and off three times) to the Lombok harbour, a five hour ferry ride, a two hour bus ride to the Bali capital, an hour bus ride a little further south, and then when there were no more buses running down to Ulu Watu I hitch hiked another hour.

I had no idea Indonesia was such a surf hub. I always thought it was Hawaii and some other random places, but Indo is a surfing mecca, the world's best coming from all over to sample southern Bali's famous spot, Ulu Watu (Ulu's to the surfers). All the big surf companies have houses out here and sponsor events, people like Rip Curl and Billabong. These waves are way outta my league, but I'm having fun just watching these guys drop in on monsters.

I've gotten really big into the surf culture since I've been out here. I've learned all about waves, how to read them, how to understand where they get their power from, how to estimate swell (the wind levels that make a wave big), how to pick out the right board... it's really interesting. I get asked questions like, "So where's your home break, bruh?" (What is the name of the surf break in my hometown). "I don't have one", I have no choice but to respond. Although I feel a bit out of place riding my motorbike without a board strapped to the side, I do enjoy being in this area. It's no joke around here... bed at 10, up at 6, hittin' waves all day. These are some of the world's best waves.

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